Sunshine always lifts the spirits. Even though we were dirty, unshaven, and traveling through a dangerous land, we didn’t mind. We sang happily as we continued to climb the hills. After some time, Liaskovik appeared in the distance. The land around was dry and barren, so it was nice to see the dark trees in the gardens of Liaskovik.
Arriving on Sunday
We arrived on a Sunday afternoon. The locals, who are Christians, had their shops closed, and the people were dressed in their best Sunday clothes, walking around the narrow streets. Once again, I experienced Turkish kindness. The Kaimakam (local governor) had heard I was coming and had sent horsemen to meet me along the Janina road. But since I had taken the mountain route, they missed me. The Kaimakam also did something unusual. He had kicked some Greeks out of the best room at the local inn, had it cleaned, and decorated with curtains that looked quite strange. He was a pleasant young man. We took a walk together, and he excitedly talked about the future of Liaskovik. He believed it could become a great health resort because of its high, dry location, sulfur springs, and the possibility of hunting bears, pigs, goats, and partridges within a half-day’s journey.
Wedding Festivities
During our walk, we came across a group of houses where a wedding celebration was still going on. In this area, weddings are celebrated for a month or six weeks. The villagers, dressed in colorful traditional clothes, were gathered in front of their homes. There was music from guitars and reed instruments, and the Albanians danced, sang, and acted full of joy. Despite being poor, they were kind and welcoming. I watched them from a distance. Soon, someone came over with a tray of Turkish delight and mastic. The Turkish delight wasn’t very tasty, and the mastic burned my throat, but I appreciated their kind gesture. When I turned to leave, the dancing stopped. Everyone stood still, and the musicians played a farewell tune.
Excitement in Liaskovik
That afternoon, Liaskovik was full of excitement. The son of the Bey (local leader) was about to marry the daughter of a rich pasha from Koritza, and she was expected to arrive at sunset. The young couple had never met before, as their families had arranged the marriage.
